Recipe


Katrina’s website

The first English cookery book  is about the top table of Medieval cookery.  Surprisingly with a little adaptation its recipes can easily be re-created. Many are delicious.

The Forme of Cury is a recipe collection created by the ‘chief master cooks of King Richard II’. I have been hunting around for a copy of this for a while, so I was delighted to find a copy on-line:

http://cunnan.sca.org.au/wiki/Cunnan:Recipes_from_the_Forme_of_Cury

English King Richard II (1367 – 1400) deserves some sympathy as he was just a ten-year-old boy when he was thrust on to the throne. But while he may have been naïve and ill equipped to deal with the demands of leadership he never the less abused his power, robbed his subjects and ordered the deaths of many of his advisors and high ranking officials as well as imposing draconian taxes and laws on his people. He was dethroned in 1399 then imprisoned before being murdered by conspirators in 1400.
richard2
During his reign the Monarch squandered vast sums of money on food and feasting. He was the first Royal who opted to eat alone instead of being the centre piece of a courtly dining spectacle, all observed by a rabble of peasants who came nightly to view their King at table. Richard II preferred to eat his gourmet delights away from prying eyes. He ate the best, the most exotic and finely executed food available. His Chief Master Cook had a tough job to fill and he recorded his recipes and achievements in the manuscript The Forme of Cury.

This is a roll call of the recipes prepared for this self-absorbed ego-maniac King. It  is also a unique insight into the best food available in the Middle Ages. It also shows that while the peasant class may have eked out an existence on gruel, at the Royal Top Table, food was imaginative and refined.

What strikes me about The Forme of Cury is that the recipes are actually fairly approachable. The original manuscript was written in Middle English and it is worth looking at this text before reading the modernized version in order to get a sense of the manuscript, a real feeling that this is an authentic historical document.

As for the food itself, some of the ingredients are unavailable, (I simply can’t remember the last time I saw lamprey in the supermarket) others you might not want to cook (I really don’t think cooking swan is worth the jail time) but there are other recipes that can be executed fairly easily and I would encourage anyone who enjoys cooking and/or history to take a look at the manuscript and have a go. (Do post a comment and let me know how you got on!)

Egurdouce Of Fysshe or sweet and sour fish is my favourite so far. This dish is similar to Spanish escabeche or Japanese nanbanzuke: fried fish marinated in a sweet and sour dressing. It is wonderful to see a historical English fish dish that is so creative and delicious. (Note to self: idea for a future blog, how the 16th century Puritan Reformation did English fish cookery up like a kipper.)

So now for a taste of the Medieval:

Egurdouce Of Fysshe.

Take Loches other Tenches other Solys smyte hem on pecys. fry hem in oyle. take half wyne half vynegur and sugur & make a siryp. do therto oynouns icorue raisouns coraunce. and grete raysouns. do therto hole spices. gode powdours and salt. messe the fyssh & lay the sewe aboue and serue forth.

Sweet and Sour Fish (my translation)

Take loaches, other trenches, other soles and cut them into pieces. Fry them in oil. Take half wine, half vinegar and sugar and make a syrup. Core onions, raisins, currants and sultanas. Add to that whole spice, good powders and fish. Plate the fish, and lay the stew about it, then serve it forth.

Sweet and Sour Fish (my 21st Century Version)

500g filleted mixed fish (pollock, salmon, mackerel – good to have a mix of textures)
50g flour to coat
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
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100ml white wine
50ml vinegar
100g mixed dried fruit
1 tablespoon of honey
1 large onion
Pinch each of: ginger, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cloves, nutmeg etc (There’s scope to play around here)
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil

Finally dice the onion and sweat in the oil for a good 10 minutes until soft and tender. Add the honey, spices, mixed fruit, wine and vinegar and bring to the boil.
Coat the fish in flour and gently fry.
Place fish in serving dish and pour the sweet and sour marinade over.
Leave to chill then serve it forth.

 Katrina’s website

A classic French cake adapted to suit either a gluten free diet or those who favour a super light sponge.

Although this is a food blog I don’t often write recipes on it (there are plenty elsewhere on the web). However I was recently chatting with a friend who is struggling with a dilemma between gluten intolerance and a sweet tooth. She was bemoaning how most gluten free cakes tend to be too robust and filling. I can see her point, as although there may be times when only a filling flapjack will do, I think that patisserie should be similar to witty banter: light, frivolous and full of the joy of life.

Biscuit de Savoie is a classic French cake. Traditionally it is made with a mixture of potato and wheat flour (50/50 or 60/40 depending on the cook), however I have made it successfully with 100% potato flour, meaning it is gluten free. As this cake is even lighter than a classic Biscuit de Savoie, you really need a fairy touch when folding through the ingredients, plus as with all fatless sponges, its shelf life is limited to hours. So eat on the day of baking. I like to fill this cake with cream and jam, however I’ve also had it served plain accompanying stewed fruit.

My thanks to Shaun Pritchard who gave me his mother’s recipe (using 60 g potato flour and 40g plain wheat flour), as she is from Savoie region in France it is the real, tried and tested, thing. Here’s my adaptation:

Biscuit de Savoiebiscuit-de-savoie-aux-fraises-_3140

100g potato flour

4 eggs

190g castor sugar flavoured with a vanilla pod

 

100ml double / clotted cream or crème fraîche

2 tablespoons of jam

Beat egg yolks and sugar until they are thick and white in colour. You may need to add a tablespoon of cold water if the mixture is very dry.

Very gently fold through the flour.

Whisk the egg whites till stiff.

Fold egg whites through the mixture with the lightest of touches.

Pour this into a greased tin.

Bake for 40 mins at 180°c.

When cool slice across the middle and spread with jam and cream. Eat that day.

 

For those friends and family who have been angling for my orange cake recipe, also gluten free, I’m afraid to say that it remains a closely guarded secret which proves that some cooks are just mean.

Katrina’s website